Sweating In Siem Reap (Cambodia With Children)

'It's absolutely a possibility', beamed our charming host, Justin (who in actual fact bore a remarkable resemblance to a Cambodian Justin Bieber).

He was replying to my slightly embarrassed enquiry about whether the hotel could prepare our baby a vegetarian, allergy-friendly packed breakfast.  'Absolutely' and 'possibility' were words we heard a lot during our stay in Siem Reap.  I had the distinct suspicion that if I had asked our hotel staff to move our bed to the ceiling so that I could sleep upside down, someone would have been on it.

But it wasn't just inside the confines of our lovely hotel that congeniality reined supreme. Admittedly I've only spent four days in Cambodia and not seen beyond Angkor, but I'm pretty sure that if countries had catch phrases, Cambodia's would be 'can do'.

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My husband and I took Little Miss for three days to Siem Reap in March.  My ever obliging in-laws, who were staying with us at the time, offered to stay in KL with Master Five so that we could travel with our more portable child to one of the most adventurous destinations on our SE Asia Bucket List.  We stayed at the Golden Temple Residence, a new and flawless boutique hotel.

Like many tourists our main reason for travelling to Siem Reap was to explore the mind-blowing ancient temples of Angkor.  We also wanted to see for ourselves the beautiful spirit we have heard so many talk of, in a country whose war wounds are only just now healing.

We spent our first afternoon and evening strolling around Siem Reap town itself.  We made a beeline for the much-lauded Artisans d'Angkor.  Here we were taken on a free guided tour around a collective of workshops where we watched artists showcase traditional Khmer crafts including stone carving, silk weaving and lacquer work.  The organisation prides itself on providing education, a fair wage and employment opportunities for those with disabilities.  Older children will find it fascinating.  Little ones will be content to run around in the shade chasing butterflies.  Little Miss was welcomed with open arms, as she was all over the town.

We followed up with a delicious meal of Cambodian curry.  There are too many good restaurants to mention in Siem Reap.  We visited a few based on word of mouth, but were just as happy stumbling across others.  A word of caution though - I don't know about you, but dinner spent chasing a new walker out from underneath the feet of fellow diners isn't my idea of a good night out.  As with much of SE Asia, few restaurants have highchairs in Siem Reap.  We brought along a foldable booster seat.  It saved us a lot of grief.  Of course, there is always the chance that a friendly waitress will spot your dilemma and hold your tot for you while you eat.  This is also not uncommon in the region - and very much appreciated!

The following morning we visited the War Museum, a short tuk tuk trip out of the centre of town.  This was a sobering, but very worthwhile experience.  The museum is outdoors (plan to go early or late in the day to avoid the scorching sun), displaying remnants of artillery and vehicles used during civil war.  There are little huts housing vivid photos and accounts of the human implications of war.  But it is the guides' very personal retelling of harrowing years spent under the Pol Pot regime that really leaves a mark.  I was brought to tears listening to our guide's story of the day he was orphaned.  Little Miss was far too young to understand or absorb what we saw and heard and was happy to rest in the baby carrier as we walked around.  However, if you have older children you may wish to skip this.  We wouldn't have felt right exposing Mister Five to such things.

Lunch time calls for a siesta in Siem Reap.  Refreshed after a few hours in air conditioning we headed out to meet our guide for the rest of our stay in Cambodia.  On the recommendation of several friends who've also taken children to Siem Reap, we hired a guide with an air conditioned car.  Compared to the many tourists heading to Angkor on a tuk tuk or bicycle, we perhaps looked like a pair of uncool non-hipsters, but we took comfort in the fact that Little Miss was protected from the heat and the dust, both of which could have been overwhelming for a small person.  And we had at our disposal a very knowledgable and friendly guide who was able to pinpoint the best route and timings to keep us all comfortable.  It was reassuring to hear that our guide had a baby too though ever so slightly disconcerting when he told us she'd kept him up for most of the previous night...

On our guide's advice our first and only stop that afternoon was to the Bayon, inside the ruins of the city of Angkor Thom.  Almost one thousand years old, this monolith features clusters of eroded towers, all carved with huge faces.  In the late afternoon light, the serene eyes stared down at us as we meandered through the maze.  We stopped at some of the reliefs carved into the surrounding walls and listened to stories of the ancient civilisation depicted therein.  It's a cliche but I felt breathless (and not from the heat).  Little Miss was somewhat less impressed and slept throughout, happily strapped to my chest.

That evening we took a walk amongst some of the night markets in Siem Reap.  They are surprisingly gaudy, neon affairs and a rude shock after the refined elegance of the Bayon.  We struggled to find anything we hadn't seen in countless other markets in countless other cities in Asia.  We gave up on shopping and once Little Miss had nodded off, headed off for a street-side foot massage instead.  A much better use of our time!

The following morning we did the tourist thing and woke at five so that we could enjoy more temples before the day's heat became too menacing.  Our clever guide had masterminded an itinerary that saw us neatly sidestep all of the thousands of tour buses that descend upon Angkor at (apparently) predictable intervals.  Instead of catching the famous Angkor Wat at sunrise, we headed first to the very mysterious Ta Prohm.  Famous thanks to Angelina Jolie and her Tomb Raiding, we beat all the crowds and wandered around this evocative site as if we were the first people to discover it.  Birds sang overhead as the sun began to filter through the beautiful old trees surrounding, and growing within, the ruins.  Our guide told us that in an hour's time there would be no bird song, just the dull roar of thousands of tour bus visitors.

We left before anyone else came to share the moment, and drove on to Angkor Wat as the sunrise busloads were leaving and heading off for breakfast.  Again, we had the place to ourselves.  Angkor Wat was the only site that may have been difficult had Mister Five joined us.  So vast is this beautifully preserved ancient temple that our legs ached by the time we had walked halfway around (though the small person strapped to me may have had something to do with that too).  Again we marvelled at the intricate reliefs, the towers, the ancient sandstone that has stood the test of time in a way that's almost unfathomable.  As we walked towards the centre, steps became narrower and the ground more rutted.  In fact, children are not allowed to climb to the third level because the flight of steps leading up is considered too dangerous.  Much as I wanted to see the view from the top, it was a blissful relief to sit below with Little Miss while my hardier husband made the pilgrimage.

We made the decision to end our temple visiting at that point.  Those without little people to factor in may well choose to visit more of the many, many astounding ruins in Angkor.  For us though, it was enough.  We had seen the three major attractions and knew we'd created memories to last a lifetime.


Our last afternoon was spent swimming and pottering and eating.  We visited a few bookshops and local galleries.  Ate yet another curry.  Played peekaboo with strangers.  Somehow time whiled itself away and we found ourselves back in our hotel room and packing up after a magical trip into a country like nowhere else.

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So is it worth it?  All the careful packing, trudging through the heat, the sensible shoes you'll no doubt find yourself wearing?  Is bringing children to Siem Reap a good idea?

It's absolutely a possibility.

Surviving Jet Lag With Babies And Children

I used to think that jet lag was nothing of consequence.  Sometimes it would cast a little fog of disorientation for a few days, and it might lead to one or two unexpected night wakenings.  But short of sipping tea at three in the morning before cosying back down into my peaceful bed, it had little bearing on my life, really.

Of course, that’s changed now.  Since the advent of children, jet lag has become Something Of Very Great Consequence.  Because jet lag is now a very firm presence in our life and has a bearing on almost everything we do over the course of the week following long haul travel (and most notably, West to East travel).  Not because my own symptoms of jet lag have changed, but because I am now in charge of relieving the prominent jet lag symptoms of two small people who don’t have recourse to soothing midnight cups of herbal tea in the same way that I once did.

So what to do?  I wish I was writing today to share a golden rule or a vital nugget.  I'm afraid I have neither.  But perhaps I’ll be able to share one or two things that might make the getting back to normalcy process a tiny bit shorter, or at least, a little less shocking and a little bit more likely to turn into a funny anecdote one day.  Maybe.  (And please forgive any typos.  I'm in the midst of London to KL-induced family jet lag at the moment).

Sunlight
All the experts say this, don’t they?  Getting your tots out into daylight may not reset their circadian clocks instantly, but it does seem to cheer everyone up. And keeping little ones occupied will give them fewer opportunities to discuss alternating sleep patterns for the coming night (is it just me, or is it an unwritten rule that in a household of two or more children while one sleeps the other will wake, and vice versa?).

Swim
If you’re lucky enough to have an outdoor pool you can get your sunlight dosage and wear out your little ones all at the same time.  Swimming exhausts me at the best of times and I find it brings my children one little step closer to a decent bedtime during jet lag spells.

Take the pressure off
Try to return from a long trip at the start of a weekend.   And it might be wise to postpone that playdate with the destructive boy next door until you have the inner poise to deal with it calmly.

Forgo the sleep in and the long nap
This is of course the evil of jet lag: after an almost sleepless night, the family finally settles into a deep sleep sometime around six am.  Naturally no one wants to stir from this blessed relief until well after lunchtime, but do try!  Because let’s be honest, the child who sleeps until 1pm is not going to be happily dreaming at 8pm.  Of course, the same applies to naps too.  Whilst it might seem like a heavenly idea to put your feet up while your baby takes a (normally unheard of) four hour nap, you can also guarantee that your feet will be firmly on the floor in the wee hours of the coming night.

Keep it dark (and slow)
I once convinced my husband to watch an interior design documentary with me.  It happened to be about lighting.  He hasn’t watched another since, but he did take away a bit of a fixation with soft lighting.  And so we invested in a number or lamps.  These are a godsend during jet lag weeks.  As soon as the evening settles, we forgo overhead lights for tripods, uplights and table lamps (or you could just get a dimmer switch).  This helps somewhat, and even if I find myself sitting on the floor playing tea parties at two am the soft glow makes it somehow feel more like a dream than a nightmare.  It also seems to slow things down.  When we switch to low light as evening settles, games get quieter and more subdued.

Banish the clock
We’ve all played that dreadful little game that begins with a quick glance at the clock during a bout of sleeplessness.  There’s the countdown to wake up time and the mean little inner voice that pipes up with such useful gems as ‘Even if you fell asleep right now, which you won’t, you won’t get anywhere near enough sleep.’  Remove your phone from your bedside table.  Turn clocks inwards.  Do not succumb.

Roll with it
Because honestly, none of the points above are going to take you from jet lag to blissful sleep in one easy night.  But if you can, embrace a little of the craziness of jet lag and laugh a little at the midnight family gatherings in the hallway.  Remind yourself that your little one will probably manage to fall asleep on a matress, rather than your head, in a few days’ time.  You might even find it funny.  Sort of.

And do bear in mind that there is one very silver lining to family jet lag.  When your children finally do manage to return to their normal sleep patterns, you can rest assured that you’ll have no more of your own jet lag to deal with.  Sheer exhaustion will have taken care of that.  You’ll be able to snore your way through all the time zones in the world.

Sundays Are Fun Days (Sun Day Out At Jaya One)

On Mister Four's last birthday we bought him a bike.  It was a thing of beauty, with its shiny red paintwork and coordinating helmet.  We buffed it, checked the tyres and set it up while the little man slept.  We'd thought of everything.

Well not quite.

Because the next morning, with squeals of delight our little KL-ite jumped right on and started pedalling into the living room in the general direction of our glass sliding doors.  We'd forgotten that, like many other central KL residents, we don't have a garden.

We brushed this aside as a minor hiccup and decided to head to the park.  KL boasts some very good, spacious and well-maintained green spaces.  But in order to utilise them, you need to get your family fed, dressed and out of the house before about 9.00am.  If you fail to do this your cycling trip will produce more sweat than a bout with a sumo wrestler.  A second option is to head to the park sometime after 4pm.  This is of course a careful balancing act.  You need to make it late enough to avoid the piercing heat but early enough that you have not entered the dreaded 'witching hour'.

It's doable.  You can ride a bike outdoors in KL.  It just requires military precision.

But we weren't great at it.  Six months later Mister Four's bike was almost as shiny as it had been on the morning of his birthday.

So it's fortunate that we recently found out about Sun Day Out at The School (Malaysia's first enrichment mall) at the Jaya One complex in Petaling Jaya.

 Every Sunday from 10am to 3pm (right when the sun is at its fiercest) the ground floor of The School is made available for little ones to pedal to their hearts' content.  It's free.  It's clean.  It's well organised.

You can even borrow a free bike if you don't have your own (though the selection is quite limited).  Little Miss had a blast being pushed around on her baby trike last Sunday while Mister Four zoomed around on the 'roads' that have been set up especially for little cyclists. 

Best of all though is that the smart people at The School have thought of mum and dad too.  Next door to the cycling area is a little Sunday market.  Cute little stationary, homewares and fashion stalls offer quirky finds.  A number of pop-up food stalls sell light (and unusual) bites for those who've worked up an appetite.  If you prefer something heavier, there are a number of trendy, warehouse-turned-NY-loft-appartment style restaurants with a good selection and a friendly vibe in Jaya One.  

I'm sure the brains behind the concept were parents.  On the ground floor of The School is the first men's only baby change room I've ever seen.  Hands-on dads can change baby's nappy while his other charges play or watch TV in the 'Babysitting Dads' room.  Mums needn't feel left out though.  There is a nice mums' room with a breastfeeding area upstairs.

You'll need to allow about half an hour to get to The School on a Sunday from central KL.  Parking is straightforward and cheap.  There's no need to book a slot.  Just show up whenever you manage to get out of the house.  

And as for the bike?  Okay, so the tyres aren't exactly muddy, but it's definitely got some pretty cool scuff marks now.

Getting Down With The Fish - Aquaria KLCC

Mister Four started a new year at kindergarten last week.  After a few days filled with the excitement of new shoe buying and uniform labelling, I found myself back in the school yard, waving off my little big boy and desperate to fill the void.  And so I turned to the other school mums and the conversation went something like this.

'So what did you do over the summer?' (And no, as an Aussie I still haven't got used to referring to July and August as 'summer').

'We kayaked to a desserted island.'

'We zip-lined through the jungle.'

'We scaled Everest.'

Okay, not quite. But you get my drift.  It seemed everyone had an exciting adventure to share.

But so did I.  One rainy Monday morning here in KL Mister Four, Little Miss and I had a close encounter with a tiger shark...

Fancy one too?  You'll need to head to Aquaria KLCC.

The first thing I like about this aquarium is just how easy it is to get to.  It's located in the concourse of the Convention Centre.  You can walk across from Suria KLCC and there are good public transport links.  It's well sign-posted too.

The aquarium houses eight or so exhibits, showcasing marine life in various habitats from jungle streams to tropical waters.  There are also otters and water rats - surprisingly cute and cuddly looking.  Young children will enjoy the touch pools where they can stroke sea cucumbers and star fish.  Then there is the shark display, with enough jaws and pointy teeth to tantalise any future marine biologist.  On any of our visits though, it's the Oceanarium that steals the show.  We never tire of watching tiger sharks, rays and turtles swim above our heads in the tunnel and there's definitely child appeal in the moving walkway.  We also enjoy the fish feedings, which are scheduled throughout the day (check first).  Be warned though that they can get very crowded.  On this last occasion I was left standing on the side with Little Miss, craning my neck to get a view of anything more than the man in front's head.

It's worth mentioning that the Jewels Of The Jungle exhibit was closed when we went in August.  I believe there is a new display set to replace it, but it did leave a slight 'hole' in our tour.  That said, there is still plenty to see.

I should also mention that it's one of the more costly family attractions in the city.  This must be reflective of the upkeep required though, evident in the well-maintained exhibits.  Residents of Malaysia receive a discounted rate on presentation of ID.

Having visited a number of aquariums in other countries, I think that Aquaria holds its own in terms of variety and presentation and will keep little ones happily diverted.  It's not particularly large, but a good size for younger children whose interest may be zealous but short lived.  There are toilet facilities though few rest stops.  The aquarium is stroller and wheelchair friendly.  It's well staffed and we found a number of people willing to help us navigate our way around.

As with most child-orientated attractions in the modern world the exit hosts a sizeable gift shop with all manner of marine (and surprisingly non-marine) trinkets on offer.  I challenge any parent to make an undiverted exit.

I haven't managed it yet but perhaps that's my challenge for the next school holidays.

Mums Who Move: Three Under Five In Kinshasa

It's not often that I meet a mum who makes travelling across the globe with small children look not only easy but fun too!  Jess hails from Canada but lives thousands of miles away in Kinshasa, Democratic Republic of Congo.  When she's not battling black flies or stifling humidity, Jess, a mum of three trilingual children under five teaches at an international school.  But come holiday time, Jess and her clan are off, venturing from the Seychelles to France to Uganda.  She is the queen of the long haul flight en masse and has some great tips to share.  Here's her amazing story...

Meet Jess 

I’m a Canadian mom living in the Democratic Republic of Congo for the last five years.  Before Kinshasa, we lived in Uganda for five years as well. I have three little ones: a girl (4.5), a boy (3) and another boy (15 months).  I’m also a teacher in an international school here.

My husband is originally from Congo, although he is of Indian descent. Although we met in uni in Canada, we always knew would we would come back here to work for his family business.

The best bits about living in DRC

There are so many! No snow for starters lol. Despite decades of hardship, the Congolese people are some of the nicest, kindest and most generous that I have met. Our staff is always willing to share their very, very limited food with my kids. Congo is also a Francophone country so my children are growing up trilingual, including Lingala one of the local dialects. My children are being exposed to a life most people in Canada can’t imagine.

The challenges

Water, electricity, high unemployment/poverty, suffocating humidity, mosquitoes and black flies that won’t give up, and the thousands of kilometres that separate me from my own mom. Leaving your parents never gets easier, even after ten years of tearful goodbyes at the airport.

Keeping children occupied in Kinshasa

Activities are limited here although there are more and more every year. Children can participate in after school activities, ballet, horse riding, soccer, karate – there is a fairly good offering but it’s all done on a rather small scale. Kinshasa is a child friendly place to live but there are security considerations to make when moving around after dark. Car doors are always locked and windows up whether days or night.

There are a variety of school options in English and French. The schools are small but serve their students well.

Getting away

The average ex-patriate leaves Kinshasa at every opportunity! We travel at least three times a year, usually on long haul flights. Travel within Congo, and most of Africa for that matter, is extremely expensive. I can fly to France for less money than I can fly to Uganda, a neighbouring country.

A top destination

We recently went to Seychelles when the kids were 3 and 18 months. I was also 5 months pregnant. We rented an apartment (a far better way to travel for young families than the standard hotel room) and we had a fabulous time. The beaches were the most beautiful I have ever seen and we were able really have a relaxing time.

And a funny travel story

When our daughter was about 6 months old we were in Paris on holiday. We went to visit Notre Dame Cathedral. My husband decided to hang back with the baby while I went up to get a closer look at the altar. A complete stranger approached my husband and demanded to know where the baby’s mother was. My daughter does not look like my husband at all and the woman was concerned he had kidnapped her.

A top product

ERGO! ERGO! ERGO! The best baby carrier made (I’ve tried about five slings, wraps or carriers) for travel. In October 2013 we travelled to Spain for a family holiday. We were in the Madrid train station trying to get down to Marbella. The kids were 3.5, 2 and 5 months. My husband was pushing two suitcases and two duffle bags, I had the 2 year old in the stroller, the 3.5 year old walking and the baby in the Ergo. Of course baby got hungry as we needed to speed quickly to the train! So I snapped on the hood, opened up my nursing top and fed baby while I pushed the stroller, held a wee hand and hustled towards the train. Now THAT is a good carrier! I also love how snuggly baby is and how easy it is to put on. I carried my 4.5 year old in it this summer (on my back) and she happily fell asleep while we walked around Toronto. Can’t recommend this one enough for traveling families.

A top tip

So many families are afraid to travel with kids but it really is terrific and not as hard as you think. A good tip for flights or long car rides: head to the local dollar store and spend $20 on junky toys. Put them in a brown paper bag for the flight. Everytime your child gets bored with a toy, you can pull out a new one. If it gets lost of broke on the plane, don’t worry! It only cost $1. It’s a great way to keep them busy, you haven’t spent a ton of money and you don’t need to stress about losing them.

A recommended blog for Mums Who Move

It’s not my blog but it’s done by two good friends of mine and it’s terrific. http://www.mamacongo.blogspot.com

Are you a Mum Who Moves?  I'd love to share your story.  Please drop me an email at mumontmove@gmail.com

Chilling (With Children) In Chiang Mai

Three good reasons to take your little ones to Chiang Mai:

1. There's something interesting, beautiful or both on almost every corner.
2. Travelling around in a tuk-tuk or song taew is waaaay more exciting than the boring old family car.
3. Your children will make new friends all over the city and chances are pretty high that you will too.

One good reason not to take your little ones to Chiang Mai:

1. Dragging your children (and your freshly Thai-massaged body) away is no fun at all.


Thailand sits right up there as one of my favourite countries in the world.  There's the food.  The beautiful temples.  Not to mention the markets.  Oh, and the famous Thai hospitality.  There's the bit about the pedicures that cost less than a bottle of cheap polish.  And not least the incredible history and culture waiting to be uncovered at every turn.

We've just returned from our third trip to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand.  The relatively small city is famous as a stepping stone for treks to visit nearby hill tribes (which we did and loved in our pre-parenting days) but also as a fantastic destination in its own right, crammed full of centuries-old temples, quirky boutiques and tucked away little restaurants boasting some of the best food I've ever tasted.

I have neither the knowledge nor the time (hello again, wakeful baby) to cover all the attractions this beautiful city offers but here are the highlights (and one unfortunate lowlight) of our recent four day trip.

Wats

Wat Pan Tao

'What's a wat, Mummy?' Mister Four's question was answered pretty quickly, as, like any visitors to Chiang Mai we encountered numerous Buddhist temples in our wanderings.  We picked out a few specific wats to visit and then enjoyed stumbling across one or two more.  Each wat houses a large Buddha statue and also a monastery.  But beyond this, there is a great deal of variation, with each temple holding a unique history and place in the community.  We thought Wat Ratchamontian was particularly interesting - it's not too large for little feet to navigate and young travellers' imaginations will be fired up by its other moniker, the 'Dragon Temple'.  These feisty creatures adorn the walls around the temple.



We also stopped at Wat Pan Tao (Monastery Of A Thousand Kilns) with its lovely old teak hall, and Wat Chedi Luang where you will find a 60m high stupa.  And no visit to Chiang Mai is complete without a visit to the famous Wat Prathat Doi Suthep.  This glorious temple built in the fourteenth century sits proudly atop Doi Suthep, a mountain west of the city.  The views from the top are fantastic and the journey up there is great fun too.

One word of caution: even the most devoted sightseer can succumb to 'temple fatigue'.  Don't try to pack in too many temples; instead go slowly and experience the tranquility of just a few.  And do take the time to talk to some of the resident monks.  Mister Four learnt more about Thailand during daily chats than at any other point in the day.  (He was also rather partial to the little cakes and fruit that his new friends showered him with.)

Maesa Elephant Camp

Have you ever seen an elephant paint a beautiful watercolour landscape with its trunk?  I hadn't either until our trip to Maesa Elephant Camp.  Over the years we've been to our fair share of elephant shows.  This one was by far and away the best.  Elephant soccer is quite a feat to behold, as is watching an elephant puncture a balloon with a dart.  What we liked best though was, although I'm no elephant whisper, as far as we could tell the elephants here appeared to be healthy and well cared for.  Mr Four and the other half paid a little extra to ride atop one of the beautiful giants living here.  Little Miss and I waited downstairs and considered starting a ticketing system for all the fellow tourists who clamoured to take selfies with our Western(ish) looking baby.


Mae Sa Snake Farm

We nearly always put in some Trip Advisor hours before visiting animal attractions anywhere in the world.  On principle we refuse to patronise places where the animals seem to be ill-treated or unhappy.  But the two men in my life are snake lovers (yes, really) and we made the impromptu decision to drop into the snake farm as we passed it on our way back from the elephant camp.  I won't go into lengthy detail, but will simply say that if a posse of testosterone-infused teenage boys, a handful of King Cobras and a Lady Gaga-loving macabre DJ were to meet in the street they would put together something very similar to the Mae Sa Snake Farm.  You've been warned...

Suan Buak Hat

As often happens in our travels en famille we needed a morning to let our children just, well, be children.  We found Chiang Mai's one little park and had a very pleasant few hours here.  Although not large, this little green space houses two ponds, an enormous population of pigeons and fish, a good, air-conditioned cafe, and on the day we visited (a Saturday), a somewhat rough-around-the-edges but cute fun fair.  A single ticket for a little train ride bought Mister Four an entire ten minutes looping around a little track.  An investment of 40p (about 70 cents in Australia) meant that he could sit in the shade happily painting a plaster turtle.  And Little Miss thought the equivalent sum we spent on her huge bag of pigeon and
fish food was money very well spent.  We left the park feeling refreshed and happy, exactly the way we'd hoped.

Shopping

If the notion took you, you could fill a wardrobe and furnish a small house at the markets in Chiang Mai.  It's all just a matter of deciding what you're after and then choosing the market to suit your needs.  You can hit up the 1km long night bazaar for your fill of fake purses, bags, t-shirts and even Havaianas.  If Prado handbags aren't really your thing, you're likely to prefer the Saturday markets or the Sunday (also called Walking Street) markets, where you'll find beautiful handicrafts and more original items.  All three markets open in the late afternoon and close around midnight.  If those aren't enough options you can find out about more markets that will help you spend your baht here.

If quirky homewares are your cup of tea, it's also worth taking the time to visit The House, a cluster of Asian lifestyle stores.  This gorgeous cluster of four stores sells bright and colourful cushions, crockery, clothing, accessories and other trinkets.  We bought a set of melamine bowls, cups and spoons that are so pretty I'm tempted to keep them on permanent display on the kitchen bench.  And if all this shopping's got you dropping, you can pop into their cute cafe in the complex.

Eating

What would a trip to Thailand be without savouring the country's famous salty, sour, spicy and sweet blend of flavours.  We devoured curries, noodles, rice and fresh juices in much the same way small children tuck into birthday cake at a party.  Mister Four and Little Miss were well catered for too.  We found restaurants very obliging, making mild dishes for the little man and simple meals of plain rice, steamed veggies etc for our new littlest eater.  Dishes like pad thai, massaman curry and fried rice can easily be adopted to suit youngsters with an aversion to chillies.  Do be forewarned though that it can be hard to find restaurants with high chairs.  It wasn't the issue it could have been however - in most eateries we were met by many pairs of obliging arms offering to hold Little Miss while we slurped our way through culinary heaven.  We found decent food everywhere, but if you have specific dietary requirements you may want to do some research first.  Vegetarians will find lots of options listed on Trip Advisor or Happy Cow.

Getting Around

Before Mister Four was born we took great delight in choosing a beautiful, all bells and whistles 'travel system' for our outings with a bub.  Within two weeks of moving to Asia I had ordered a cheap, lightweight, no frills stroller.  The latter came with us on this trip and served us well.  You will find you end up lifting your stroller up and down steps, careering along rutted pavements and dodging random holes in the footpath.  But we also found fellow pedestrians to be patient and helpful as we made our slow manoeuvres.  The stroller doubled up as a high chair in some restaurants for the few minutes we could keep Little Miss at the table and as a bed on wheels when Mister Four became weary at the night markets.  But for short trips or outings where you can forgo the stroller, a baby carrier is the simplest way to travel with a little one in Chiang Mai.

Around town we took taxis, tuktuks and songtaews (open ended pick up trucks) for short, easy journeys.  Tuktuks and songtaews have a huge appeal for young children, but I made sure we used them only for little trips on roads where we would not be travelling quickly.  For anything longer or on larger roads we stuck to taxis with our own carseats installed.  Our hotel was able to help us find all modes of transport easily and advised us on reasonable fares around town.


On this trip we stayed at Le Meridien.  This was a good option for convenience, space and modern amenities.  If, however, you're looking for something with more of a local flavour, we have also stayed at and thoroughly enjoyed Seven Senses Guest House.

Packing Hacks For Families (Expatriate Lifestyle Magazine Collaboration)

A few weeks ago my family and I had a great time doing a photo shoot and interview with the lovely people at Expatriate Lifestyle magazine, Malaysia's number one expat magazine.  We talked about our experiences of travelling in the region and why we won't be stopping anytime soon, in spite of (or perhaps because of!) our two little children. It was an exciting moment to see it in print!

I also wrote a supplementary piece for the website on my top packing hacks for weekends away in Malaysia.  Want to read more?  You can see it here.

Strolling In Sarawak (Kuching For Families)

I'm going to have to be honest here for a moment.  When I asked Mister Four what his abiding memory of our weekend break to Kuching was, it wasn't the incredible organ utans that walked right across our path in the jungle.  Nor was it the majestic long houses we visited one morning.  It wasn't even the boats cruising up and down the pretty river running through the city.  It was the cats.

Kuching means 'cat' in Bahasa Malay and Sarawak's capital city hasn't shied away from the association.  Turn your head one way and you'll see a fountain featuring the feline creatures preening in the water.  Turn the other way and another furry friend is posing in cemented glory atop a stately plinth.  If you're a cat person you'll be a Kuching person.

Of course, Kuching has much, much more to boast than its feline affinity.  We spent just two nights uncovering a few of the highlights of the city and its surrounds:

The waterfront

Kuching is a small city situated on the Sarawak River and the kilometre-long esplanade that runs along it is well worth a stroll.  Our late afternoon meanders wound us through the city with food stalls, markets and some (questionable) busking setting the scene. We ended our walks at the beautiful Old Court House, a stunning colonial building that now houses the Visitor Information Centre.  Those with small children take note - your children will quickly hone in on the surprising number of vendors selling noisy battery-operated pigs and rotating airplanes at the end of the esplanade...and if you can manage to walk past without making a purchase of such a classy souvenir, well, you did better than me!

The shophouses

Set back from the waterfront is a row of 19th century Chinese shophouses along the Main Bazaar.  Antique and homewares buffs will have a field day here.  Small children will be harder to satisfy but you can play 'spot the cat' to try to keep energy levels high while you potter.

Semenggoh Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre

 It's one thing visiting Malaysia's 'man of the jungle' in a zoo.  It's another thing entirely to see an orang utan family roaming freely in a natural habitat.  We took a half hour mini bus ride to this beautiful sanctuary and joined the scheduled morning feeding session.  During a session, participants are invited to walk with guides into the jungle as the graceful giants emerge for feeding time.  All of the orang utans in the centre have been rescued and rehabilitated and are now living semi-wild in the jungle.  We were extremely lucky - on the day we visited the alpha male guided his young family right across our path and settled on a wooden platform just metres away from us.  I held my own fuzzy-haired baby against my chest whilst the four of us breathed out a big 'aaaah'.

Visits to the centre are structured to ensure that the protection of both the animals and visitors.  You can read more about this fantastic project, including feeding times and rules and regulations here.  Highly recommended.

Sarawak Cultural Village

Way back in the day I studied 'Asian Cultures And Societies' as an elective at university.  At the time, I chose the subject as a 'filler' - something to make up my quota of 'cultural' studies to pad out my linguistics degree.  Within minutes, though, I was hooked.  While my classmates doodled across their foolscap (in the good old days, when boredom involved creativity and Candy Crush was just the name of a dessert), I listened in awe to our lecturer's tales of remote villages and little-known tribes.  For one happy semester I dreamed of a glittering career in ethnology.

Now it has to be said that whilst a visit to the Sarawak Cultural Village won't exactly take you to the frontier of cultural anthropology, it is an excellent introduction to Sarawak's ethnic diversity.  A half day is time enough to visit the different tribal houses on show here.  Children will love climbing the steep ladders up into the Melanau Tall House or taking a breather on a straw mat in the Iban Longhouse.  Each of the dozen or so houses has guides on hand to answer questions and there are cooking, musical and spear-throwing demonstrations to watch.  It's also great fun to stop in at the top-spinning hut, where you can perfect (or not) the ancient art.  Make sure you take the time to watch the daily show - it's a child-friendly 45 minute presentation of various dance forms from Sarawak.  Mister Four and Little Miss sat riveted throughout the whole thing, as did the hubby and I.  Click here to find out more about the village.





We stayed at The Lime Tree Hotel, a boutique hotel with a penchant for limes and a friendly, welcoming atmosphere.  Although not plush, the family suite was very comfortable and featured a little (and rather bare) kitchenette and lots of space for spreading out toys.  Best of all was the almost panoramic view from the curved windows.  It's located close to the esplanade and a good base for arranging tours further afield.



We left Kuching with a sense that we had just scraped the surface of a fascinating part of this beautiful country.  I hope that we'll be back again soon to uncover more - there is, after all, an entire museum dedicated to cats that Mister Four has yet to discover.

Ergobaby Stowaway: The Baby Carrier For The Tropics

Over the course of two babies I think I've owned about five different carriers.  I've also borrowed countless varieties from friends and family.  Wraps, slings and pouches, I've tried them all.  Not because of some bizarre obsession (although my husband may disagree), but because finding the perfect way to carry baby hands-free is almost as complicated as finding the right mortgage.  It's just so specific.  Everyone wants something slightly different.  And every back, and every baby, differ too.

So why am I writing about one baby carrier in particular?  Quite simply because it's the product that more people have recommended to me than any other and because having recently purchased one, I'm a complete convert.  Of course, you'll want to try it out for yourself but for me the Ergobaby Stowaway is about as good as it gets for those of us living or travelling in tropical climates.

Why?

- It's lightweight.
When trudging the streets in 36˚C heat the last thing you want is a thick, bulky fabric wrapping itself around you and baby.

- It's so comfy.
I love the way the baby sits snuggly against me and her weight is distributed evenly across my back, meaning no back pain for me.  And most importantly Little Miss seems very happy in her new mode of transport.

- It's secure.
I was a little skeptical that a lightweight fabric would feel 'safe'.  But with its safety clips and sturdy stitching I walk around hands free with no qualms.

- It has a sun hood.
Very important here in KL.  The sun hood folds away and can be pulled out when needed.  It's a real bonus, though if I'm being picky I find it's a bit too big for my baby at this stage.

- It wipes clean.
Anyone with a reflux baby or a sticky-handed toddler will know why this is a great, great thing.

- You can use it for a long time.
Technically, I could still wear Mister Four in this carrier.  I'm not sure what he'd have to say about that though...

- It folds up neatly.
I must admit that most of the time the carrier gets shoved into the bottom of the stroller or flung across the back seat of the car, but when we are flying or taking a long car journey it's really handy to be able to fold it up and er, stow the Stowaway away.

Of course nothing's perfect and I do have two little niggles about the product.  The first is that to use it for a newborn you need to buy a separate newborn insert.  That's fine in theory but the insert is thickly padded and in my opinion, would be far too hot to use in countries like Malaysia.  We simply waited to use the product until Little Miss met the recommended 5.5kg.

My second little complaint is that you can't place your baby facing outwards in an Ergobaby.  But you can wear your baby on your back and side, as well as in the front position.

Those two little niggles aside, I absolutely love my Stowaway.  It keeps both of us happy and is a great alternative to dodging potholes with a stroller.  It's Little Miss's favourite place to snooze and the best way to get anything done around the house on those clingy sorts of days.  A great buy.  In fact, I'd go so far as to say I may never need to buy another carrier again.  Well, until a new model comes out anyway...


The Ergobaby Stowaway is available at Mothercare in Malaysia.  You can also visit Ergobaby's official website for more information.

(Please note that all of my endorsements are based on my own experiences and preferences.  I do not endorse products for money or upon request).

A (Child Friendly) Morning In China Town, KL

The first time I went to China Town I dragged my little boy around in circles for a good hour.  The second time we did figures of eight.  The third time I made the effort to actually study a map properly and discovered that while getting lost is almost par for the course, with a little forward planning China Town is one of the most exciting spots to explore here in KL.    It's not necessarily the easiest destination in this great city but don't let that put you off - there's something for everyone here.

So I've done the grind work for you and thought I'd share an itinerary for a top morning or afternoon that will showcase a few of the area's charms.

Getting there

Traffic in China Town is something else.  The streets heave with a throng of coaches, motorbikes, Myvis and pedestrians.  I have neither the mettle nor the patience to drive there (though plenty do) and always take the LRT.  The nearest LRT station is Pasar Seni, just a few short stops away from KLCC.  It costs peanuts to travel and the transport is clean and efficient.

Take note though that whilst in theory it should be possible to wheel a stroller out of the station, escalators and lifts aren't always reliable.  That said, I've never had problems adopting a helpless look and finding a kind stranger to help me carry my stroller down stairs when needed.

You can also take an easy taxi journey to China Town but bear in mind that traffic can be variable and taxis hard to flag down in busy periods.

The streets around China Town, however, are hardly ideal for pushing prams and strollers.  You can just about do it if you really want to, but if you aren't a fan of pumping iron you might want to consider using a lightweight baby carrier rather than four wheels.  Just build in plenty of pit stops to avoid over heating.


Sri Maha Mariamman

China Town boasts numerous temples.  In order to avoid the all-too-real 'temple fatigue' phenomenon, I've selected two of my favourites for this itinerary.  Start early while the children are fresh and walk to Jalan Tun HS Lee to visit KL's most important Hindu temple, Sri Maha Mariamman.  You can't miss it - the five tiered tower at the front is a bit of a China Town landmark.  Children will love the vibrant colours of the various deities and friezes decorating the building and those who hanker after the exotic will love the sensation of stepping into another world here.  If you're lucky the temple with be abuzz with the sound of music accompanying prayer, if not, you'll enjoy just walking around the impressive structure.  You'll need to take off your shoes before entering.


Peter Hoe Beyond

It might seem early in the day, but given KL's heat you've probably already earned yourself a little stop gap.  It's time to walk over to Peter Hoe Beyond.  This gorgeous shop and cafe is a hidden retreat from heat, sweat and frizzy hair.  Tucked away on the second floor of Lee Rubber Building at 145 Jalan Tun HS Lee the shop stocks beautiful homewares and souvenirs, with embroidered cushions, silver tableware and decorative lamps that are a world away from some of the mass produced trinkets you'll find elsewhere in China Town.  Best of all, the little cafe serves up delicious cakes.  You may find yourself needing to use this as a bit of an incentive for good behaviour - the shop is saturated with goods, especially breakables, and you'll want to hold tightly onto little hands as you wander around.

Sze Ya Temple

Getting yet another 'average lot'

Next stroll to this little Taoist temple at 14A Lebuh Pudu.  The entrance is rather nondescript but don't be deterred.  Built in 1864 the temple houses a main hall and two side halls in honour of two deities who died in battle.  All are welcome to wander around the alters and see the statues of the deities.  If you're feeling brave you can then ask one of the attendants to take you to the side hall to discover your fortune.  They will show you how to shuffle a basket containing numbered sticks until one drops out.  The number corresponds to a fortune written on a small piece of paper and you'll be shown an English translation in a well-thumbed book in the main hall.  Be warned:  I've done this three times now and got one 'bad lot' and two 'average lots'.  So far I haven't been told I'll soon be a millionaire or a world-famous blog writer...but perhaps you'll have better luck than me.

Central Markets

Lastly, cross over to the iconic Central Markets.  I love this beautiful art deco building because it has almost everything I'm after at this point in the day.  Air con - check.  Handicrafts, souvenirs and art - check.  Food - check.  We love to meander around some of the many stores and the art enclave at the back then head upstairs to the tasty Ginger Thai restaurant for lunch when little feet start to tire.  (Of course, there are plenty of Chinese options nearby if you prefer cuisine more in keeping with the area).  My real reason for coming here though?  Taking my guests to try one of my 'non-negotiable' KL experiences:  a fish spa.  For RM5 a pop, you can submerge your feet into a communal tank while little fish nip away at dead skin.  Let's be honest here - no one really walks away with baby soft feet, but you'll be dead proud of yourself for going through with it (or satisfyingly tired out after belly laughing at your companions enduring the process).

All in all I think that's plenty for a family introduction to China Town.  Of course, you could do countless other things.  One of China Town's biggest tourist attractions is the Petaling Street markets.  These perk up at night time, when traders emerge with their fake designer bags, knock-off watches and 'best quality' DVDs.  If a slightly wonky Prado purse is the closest you're ever going to get to owning a designer piece you might want to check it out.  But bear in mind that it gets pretty crowded and can be quite overwhelming.  I've been a number of times but never taken my children.

You can use the following interactive map to plot your trip.  Of course, sometimes getting lost is part of the fun so don't let me know stop you if you choose to walk in circles or figures of eight too.

Happy exploring!