Sweating In Siem Reap (Cambodia With Children)

'It's absolutely a possibility', beamed our charming host, Justin (who in actual fact bore a remarkable resemblance to a Cambodian Justin Bieber).

He was replying to my slightly embarrassed enquiry about whether the hotel could prepare our baby a vegetarian, allergy-friendly packed breakfast.  'Absolutely' and 'possibility' were words we heard a lot during our stay in Siem Reap.  I had the distinct suspicion that if I had asked our hotel staff to move our bed to the ceiling so that I could sleep upside down, someone would have been on it.

But it wasn't just inside the confines of our lovely hotel that congeniality reined supreme. Admittedly I've only spent four days in Cambodia and not seen beyond Angkor, but I'm pretty sure that if countries had catch phrases, Cambodia's would be 'can do'.

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My husband and I took Little Miss for three days to Siem Reap in March.  My ever obliging in-laws, who were staying with us at the time, offered to stay in KL with Master Five so that we could travel with our more portable child to one of the most adventurous destinations on our SE Asia Bucket List.  We stayed at the Golden Temple Residence, a new and flawless boutique hotel.

Like many tourists our main reason for travelling to Siem Reap was to explore the mind-blowing ancient temples of Angkor.  We also wanted to see for ourselves the beautiful spirit we have heard so many talk of, in a country whose war wounds are only just now healing.

We spent our first afternoon and evening strolling around Siem Reap town itself.  We made a beeline for the much-lauded Artisans d'Angkor.  Here we were taken on a free guided tour around a collective of workshops where we watched artists showcase traditional Khmer crafts including stone carving, silk weaving and lacquer work.  The organisation prides itself on providing education, a fair wage and employment opportunities for those with disabilities.  Older children will find it fascinating.  Little ones will be content to run around in the shade chasing butterflies.  Little Miss was welcomed with open arms, as she was all over the town.

We followed up with a delicious meal of Cambodian curry.  There are too many good restaurants to mention in Siem Reap.  We visited a few based on word of mouth, but were just as happy stumbling across others.  A word of caution though - I don't know about you, but dinner spent chasing a new walker out from underneath the feet of fellow diners isn't my idea of a good night out.  As with much of SE Asia, few restaurants have highchairs in Siem Reap.  We brought along a foldable booster seat.  It saved us a lot of grief.  Of course, there is always the chance that a friendly waitress will spot your dilemma and hold your tot for you while you eat.  This is also not uncommon in the region - and very much appreciated!

The following morning we visited the War Museum, a short tuk tuk trip out of the centre of town.  This was a sobering, but very worthwhile experience.  The museum is outdoors (plan to go early or late in the day to avoid the scorching sun), displaying remnants of artillery and vehicles used during civil war.  There are little huts housing vivid photos and accounts of the human implications of war.  But it is the guides' very personal retelling of harrowing years spent under the Pol Pot regime that really leaves a mark.  I was brought to tears listening to our guide's story of the day he was orphaned.  Little Miss was far too young to understand or absorb what we saw and heard and was happy to rest in the baby carrier as we walked around.  However, if you have older children you may wish to skip this.  We wouldn't have felt right exposing Mister Five to such things.

Lunch time calls for a siesta in Siem Reap.  Refreshed after a few hours in air conditioning we headed out to meet our guide for the rest of our stay in Cambodia.  On the recommendation of several friends who've also taken children to Siem Reap, we hired a guide with an air conditioned car.  Compared to the many tourists heading to Angkor on a tuk tuk or bicycle, we perhaps looked like a pair of uncool non-hipsters, but we took comfort in the fact that Little Miss was protected from the heat and the dust, both of which could have been overwhelming for a small person.  And we had at our disposal a very knowledgable and friendly guide who was able to pinpoint the best route and timings to keep us all comfortable.  It was reassuring to hear that our guide had a baby too though ever so slightly disconcerting when he told us she'd kept him up for most of the previous night...

On our guide's advice our first and only stop that afternoon was to the Bayon, inside the ruins of the city of Angkor Thom.  Almost one thousand years old, this monolith features clusters of eroded towers, all carved with huge faces.  In the late afternoon light, the serene eyes stared down at us as we meandered through the maze.  We stopped at some of the reliefs carved into the surrounding walls and listened to stories of the ancient civilisation depicted therein.  It's a cliche but I felt breathless (and not from the heat).  Little Miss was somewhat less impressed and slept throughout, happily strapped to my chest.

That evening we took a walk amongst some of the night markets in Siem Reap.  They are surprisingly gaudy, neon affairs and a rude shock after the refined elegance of the Bayon.  We struggled to find anything we hadn't seen in countless other markets in countless other cities in Asia.  We gave up on shopping and once Little Miss had nodded off, headed off for a street-side foot massage instead.  A much better use of our time!

The following morning we did the tourist thing and woke at five so that we could enjoy more temples before the day's heat became too menacing.  Our clever guide had masterminded an itinerary that saw us neatly sidestep all of the thousands of tour buses that descend upon Angkor at (apparently) predictable intervals.  Instead of catching the famous Angkor Wat at sunrise, we headed first to the very mysterious Ta Prohm.  Famous thanks to Angelina Jolie and her Tomb Raiding, we beat all the crowds and wandered around this evocative site as if we were the first people to discover it.  Birds sang overhead as the sun began to filter through the beautiful old trees surrounding, and growing within, the ruins.  Our guide told us that in an hour's time there would be no bird song, just the dull roar of thousands of tour bus visitors.

We left before anyone else came to share the moment, and drove on to Angkor Wat as the sunrise busloads were leaving and heading off for breakfast.  Again, we had the place to ourselves.  Angkor Wat was the only site that may have been difficult had Mister Five joined us.  So vast is this beautifully preserved ancient temple that our legs ached by the time we had walked halfway around (though the small person strapped to me may have had something to do with that too).  Again we marvelled at the intricate reliefs, the towers, the ancient sandstone that has stood the test of time in a way that's almost unfathomable.  As we walked towards the centre, steps became narrower and the ground more rutted.  In fact, children are not allowed to climb to the third level because the flight of steps leading up is considered too dangerous.  Much as I wanted to see the view from the top, it was a blissful relief to sit below with Little Miss while my hardier husband made the pilgrimage.

We made the decision to end our temple visiting at that point.  Those without little people to factor in may well choose to visit more of the many, many astounding ruins in Angkor.  For us though, it was enough.  We had seen the three major attractions and knew we'd created memories to last a lifetime.


Our last afternoon was spent swimming and pottering and eating.  We visited a few bookshops and local galleries.  Ate yet another curry.  Played peekaboo with strangers.  Somehow time whiled itself away and we found ourselves back in our hotel room and packing up after a magical trip into a country like nowhere else.

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So is it worth it?  All the careful packing, trudging through the heat, the sensible shoes you'll no doubt find yourself wearing?  Is bringing children to Siem Reap a good idea?

It's absolutely a possibility.

Chilling (With Children) In Chiang Mai

Three good reasons to take your little ones to Chiang Mai:

1. There's something interesting, beautiful or both on almost every corner.
2. Travelling around in a tuk-tuk or song taew is waaaay more exciting than the boring old family car.
3. Your children will make new friends all over the city and chances are pretty high that you will too.

One good reason not to take your little ones to Chiang Mai:

1. Dragging your children (and your freshly Thai-massaged body) away is no fun at all.


Thailand sits right up there as one of my favourite countries in the world.  There's the food.  The beautiful temples.  Not to mention the markets.  Oh, and the famous Thai hospitality.  There's the bit about the pedicures that cost less than a bottle of cheap polish.  And not least the incredible history and culture waiting to be uncovered at every turn.

We've just returned from our third trip to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand.  The relatively small city is famous as a stepping stone for treks to visit nearby hill tribes (which we did and loved in our pre-parenting days) but also as a fantastic destination in its own right, crammed full of centuries-old temples, quirky boutiques and tucked away little restaurants boasting some of the best food I've ever tasted.

I have neither the knowledge nor the time (hello again, wakeful baby) to cover all the attractions this beautiful city offers but here are the highlights (and one unfortunate lowlight) of our recent four day trip.

Wats

Wat Pan Tao

'What's a wat, Mummy?' Mister Four's question was answered pretty quickly, as, like any visitors to Chiang Mai we encountered numerous Buddhist temples in our wanderings.  We picked out a few specific wats to visit and then enjoyed stumbling across one or two more.  Each wat houses a large Buddha statue and also a monastery.  But beyond this, there is a great deal of variation, with each temple holding a unique history and place in the community.  We thought Wat Ratchamontian was particularly interesting - it's not too large for little feet to navigate and young travellers' imaginations will be fired up by its other moniker, the 'Dragon Temple'.  These feisty creatures adorn the walls around the temple.



We also stopped at Wat Pan Tao (Monastery Of A Thousand Kilns) with its lovely old teak hall, and Wat Chedi Luang where you will find a 60m high stupa.  And no visit to Chiang Mai is complete without a visit to the famous Wat Prathat Doi Suthep.  This glorious temple built in the fourteenth century sits proudly atop Doi Suthep, a mountain west of the city.  The views from the top are fantastic and the journey up there is great fun too.

One word of caution: even the most devoted sightseer can succumb to 'temple fatigue'.  Don't try to pack in too many temples; instead go slowly and experience the tranquility of just a few.  And do take the time to talk to some of the resident monks.  Mister Four learnt more about Thailand during daily chats than at any other point in the day.  (He was also rather partial to the little cakes and fruit that his new friends showered him with.)

Maesa Elephant Camp

Have you ever seen an elephant paint a beautiful watercolour landscape with its trunk?  I hadn't either until our trip to Maesa Elephant Camp.  Over the years we've been to our fair share of elephant shows.  This one was by far and away the best.  Elephant soccer is quite a feat to behold, as is watching an elephant puncture a balloon with a dart.  What we liked best though was, although I'm no elephant whisper, as far as we could tell the elephants here appeared to be healthy and well cared for.  Mr Four and the other half paid a little extra to ride atop one of the beautiful giants living here.  Little Miss and I waited downstairs and considered starting a ticketing system for all the fellow tourists who clamoured to take selfies with our Western(ish) looking baby.


Mae Sa Snake Farm

We nearly always put in some Trip Advisor hours before visiting animal attractions anywhere in the world.  On principle we refuse to patronise places where the animals seem to be ill-treated or unhappy.  But the two men in my life are snake lovers (yes, really) and we made the impromptu decision to drop into the snake farm as we passed it on our way back from the elephant camp.  I won't go into lengthy detail, but will simply say that if a posse of testosterone-infused teenage boys, a handful of King Cobras and a Lady Gaga-loving macabre DJ were to meet in the street they would put together something very similar to the Mae Sa Snake Farm.  You've been warned...

Suan Buak Hat

As often happens in our travels en famille we needed a morning to let our children just, well, be children.  We found Chiang Mai's one little park and had a very pleasant few hours here.  Although not large, this little green space houses two ponds, an enormous population of pigeons and fish, a good, air-conditioned cafe, and on the day we visited (a Saturday), a somewhat rough-around-the-edges but cute fun fair.  A single ticket for a little train ride bought Mister Four an entire ten minutes looping around a little track.  An investment of 40p (about 70 cents in Australia) meant that he could sit in the shade happily painting a plaster turtle.  And Little Miss thought the equivalent sum we spent on her huge bag of pigeon and
fish food was money very well spent.  We left the park feeling refreshed and happy, exactly the way we'd hoped.

Shopping

If the notion took you, you could fill a wardrobe and furnish a small house at the markets in Chiang Mai.  It's all just a matter of deciding what you're after and then choosing the market to suit your needs.  You can hit up the 1km long night bazaar for your fill of fake purses, bags, t-shirts and even Havaianas.  If Prado handbags aren't really your thing, you're likely to prefer the Saturday markets or the Sunday (also called Walking Street) markets, where you'll find beautiful handicrafts and more original items.  All three markets open in the late afternoon and close around midnight.  If those aren't enough options you can find out about more markets that will help you spend your baht here.

If quirky homewares are your cup of tea, it's also worth taking the time to visit The House, a cluster of Asian lifestyle stores.  This gorgeous cluster of four stores sells bright and colourful cushions, crockery, clothing, accessories and other trinkets.  We bought a set of melamine bowls, cups and spoons that are so pretty I'm tempted to keep them on permanent display on the kitchen bench.  And if all this shopping's got you dropping, you can pop into their cute cafe in the complex.

Eating

What would a trip to Thailand be without savouring the country's famous salty, sour, spicy and sweet blend of flavours.  We devoured curries, noodles, rice and fresh juices in much the same way small children tuck into birthday cake at a party.  Mister Four and Little Miss were well catered for too.  We found restaurants very obliging, making mild dishes for the little man and simple meals of plain rice, steamed veggies etc for our new littlest eater.  Dishes like pad thai, massaman curry and fried rice can easily be adopted to suit youngsters with an aversion to chillies.  Do be forewarned though that it can be hard to find restaurants with high chairs.  It wasn't the issue it could have been however - in most eateries we were met by many pairs of obliging arms offering to hold Little Miss while we slurped our way through culinary heaven.  We found decent food everywhere, but if you have specific dietary requirements you may want to do some research first.  Vegetarians will find lots of options listed on Trip Advisor or Happy Cow.

Getting Around

Before Mister Four was born we took great delight in choosing a beautiful, all bells and whistles 'travel system' for our outings with a bub.  Within two weeks of moving to Asia I had ordered a cheap, lightweight, no frills stroller.  The latter came with us on this trip and served us well.  You will find you end up lifting your stroller up and down steps, careering along rutted pavements and dodging random holes in the footpath.  But we also found fellow pedestrians to be patient and helpful as we made our slow manoeuvres.  The stroller doubled up as a high chair in some restaurants for the few minutes we could keep Little Miss at the table and as a bed on wheels when Mister Four became weary at the night markets.  But for short trips or outings where you can forgo the stroller, a baby carrier is the simplest way to travel with a little one in Chiang Mai.

Around town we took taxis, tuktuks and songtaews (open ended pick up trucks) for short, easy journeys.  Tuktuks and songtaews have a huge appeal for young children, but I made sure we used them only for little trips on roads where we would not be travelling quickly.  For anything longer or on larger roads we stuck to taxis with our own carseats installed.  Our hotel was able to help us find all modes of transport easily and advised us on reasonable fares around town.


On this trip we stayed at Le Meridien.  This was a good option for convenience, space and modern amenities.  If, however, you're looking for something with more of a local flavour, we have also stayed at and thoroughly enjoyed Seven Senses Guest House.

Strolling In Sarawak (Kuching For Families)

I'm going to have to be honest here for a moment.  When I asked Mister Four what his abiding memory of our weekend break to Kuching was, it wasn't the incredible organ utans that walked right across our path in the jungle.  Nor was it the majestic long houses we visited one morning.  It wasn't even the boats cruising up and down the pretty river running through the city.  It was the cats.

Kuching means 'cat' in Bahasa Malay and Sarawak's capital city hasn't shied away from the association.  Turn your head one way and you'll see a fountain featuring the feline creatures preening in the water.  Turn the other way and another furry friend is posing in cemented glory atop a stately plinth.  If you're a cat person you'll be a Kuching person.

Of course, Kuching has much, much more to boast than its feline affinity.  We spent just two nights uncovering a few of the highlights of the city and its surrounds:

The waterfront

Kuching is a small city situated on the Sarawak River and the kilometre-long esplanade that runs along it is well worth a stroll.  Our late afternoon meanders wound us through the city with food stalls, markets and some (questionable) busking setting the scene. We ended our walks at the beautiful Old Court House, a stunning colonial building that now houses the Visitor Information Centre.  Those with small children take note - your children will quickly hone in on the surprising number of vendors selling noisy battery-operated pigs and rotating airplanes at the end of the esplanade...and if you can manage to walk past without making a purchase of such a classy souvenir, well, you did better than me!

The shophouses

Set back from the waterfront is a row of 19th century Chinese shophouses along the Main Bazaar.  Antique and homewares buffs will have a field day here.  Small children will be harder to satisfy but you can play 'spot the cat' to try to keep energy levels high while you potter.

Semenggoh Orang Utan Rehabilitation Centre

 It's one thing visiting Malaysia's 'man of the jungle' in a zoo.  It's another thing entirely to see an orang utan family roaming freely in a natural habitat.  We took a half hour mini bus ride to this beautiful sanctuary and joined the scheduled morning feeding session.  During a session, participants are invited to walk with guides into the jungle as the graceful giants emerge for feeding time.  All of the orang utans in the centre have been rescued and rehabilitated and are now living semi-wild in the jungle.  We were extremely lucky - on the day we visited the alpha male guided his young family right across our path and settled on a wooden platform just metres away from us.  I held my own fuzzy-haired baby against my chest whilst the four of us breathed out a big 'aaaah'.

Visits to the centre are structured to ensure that the protection of both the animals and visitors.  You can read more about this fantastic project, including feeding times and rules and regulations here.  Highly recommended.

Sarawak Cultural Village

Way back in the day I studied 'Asian Cultures And Societies' as an elective at university.  At the time, I chose the subject as a 'filler' - something to make up my quota of 'cultural' studies to pad out my linguistics degree.  Within minutes, though, I was hooked.  While my classmates doodled across their foolscap (in the good old days, when boredom involved creativity and Candy Crush was just the name of a dessert), I listened in awe to our lecturer's tales of remote villages and little-known tribes.  For one happy semester I dreamed of a glittering career in ethnology.

Now it has to be said that whilst a visit to the Sarawak Cultural Village won't exactly take you to the frontier of cultural anthropology, it is an excellent introduction to Sarawak's ethnic diversity.  A half day is time enough to visit the different tribal houses on show here.  Children will love climbing the steep ladders up into the Melanau Tall House or taking a breather on a straw mat in the Iban Longhouse.  Each of the dozen or so houses has guides on hand to answer questions and there are cooking, musical and spear-throwing demonstrations to watch.  It's also great fun to stop in at the top-spinning hut, where you can perfect (or not) the ancient art.  Make sure you take the time to watch the daily show - it's a child-friendly 45 minute presentation of various dance forms from Sarawak.  Mister Four and Little Miss sat riveted throughout the whole thing, as did the hubby and I.  Click here to find out more about the village.





We stayed at The Lime Tree Hotel, a boutique hotel with a penchant for limes and a friendly, welcoming atmosphere.  Although not plush, the family suite was very comfortable and featured a little (and rather bare) kitchenette and lots of space for spreading out toys.  Best of all was the almost panoramic view from the curved windows.  It's located close to the esplanade and a good base for arranging tours further afield.



We left Kuching with a sense that we had just scraped the surface of a fascinating part of this beautiful country.  I hope that we'll be back again soon to uncover more - there is, after all, an entire museum dedicated to cats that Mister Four has yet to discover.

Smiling In Singapore: The Perfect Family Holiday

The first time I travelled to Singapore about fifteen different people warned me that I would find it a bit ‘sterile’.  A bit 'overly clean’ and a bit 'too modern’.  I’ve just returned from my seventh visit.  There's no denying it is a clean and modern city.  But sterile?  I think not.  It's an adventure playground for children and a pretty near perfect destination for family fun.

I’ve optimistically allowed myself one hour to turn out a post about some of the little island's attractions, vainly hoping that Little Miss will stay asleep that long and Mister Four will obligingly play peacefully with his friend for the allotted hour.  So think of this less as an all-encompassing guide, but a little taster of what Singapore can offer families - perhaps it will provide some inspiration if you're planning a trip.

Here are highlights from our most recent five days there.  Click on the highlighted sections to go to each site's official website.

Gardens By The Bay

Not having visited this newish attraction before, I admit I was a little sceptical at first.  Would Mister Four really appreciate the beautiful flora?  Would Little Miss nap her way through the heat?  Turns out that yes, Mister Four quite liked the giant trees and Little Miss did catch some zzzs in the shade.  But what really did it for us was the water park here.  There’s a new, huge (and free!) splash play area where hot and sticky little people can run under water fountains and tip hovering buckets of water over themselves (and unsuspecting others) to their hearts’ content.  There’s also an adventurous, sand-based playground running alongside the water park and best of all, a large, shaded area for parents with deck chairs and giant fans, keeping those of us who prefer to stay dry nice and cool - a rare feat in humid Singapore.  

Giant trees, small boy

Singapore Zoo

Alright, so I know it’s an obvious one, but you really can’t visit Singapore and not stop off here.  You’ve likely heard that this is one of the world’s great zoos, and for good reason too.  It’s a little way out of town, but that means it’s set in a beautiful expanse of jungle.  You’ll find most of the animal kingdom's big shots here (and quite a few of its interesting supporting acts too) and you won’t fail to be impressed by the clever ‘cage free’ environment.  The animals look healthy and the grounds are pristine.  The zoo is best showcased by its slick shows and feeding sessions.  There are decent food outlets and baby change and feeding stations peppered throughout.  Our ticket included unlimited tram rides and this was a godsend for tired little feet (and aching, baby–wearing backs).  Oh, and because this is Singapore, there is again a fantastic water play area in the Kidzworld section.  It was the perfect way to end another hot and sticky day (and let’s be honest, Mister Four’s abiding memory of the outing).

Never smile at a crocodile...

Night Safari

Ten years ago in those hazy days before either of us knew how to change a nappy, hubby and I spent a romantic night here.  This time round we knew that our visit would be less about the tranquil ambience and more about the excitement of riding a tram through the darkness.  In all honesty I’m not sure if Mister Four fully appreciated the beauty of elephants quietly foraging in the moonlight (and Little Miss had no idea at all) but he thought the transport was pretty cool.  There are a number of walking trails you can take through the park but if little ones are tired the tram ride gives a good overview of all the animals on offer.  And do avoid public holidays: we visited over Chinese New Year and queues for the tram were loooong.  I ended up holding a sleepy little boy for the best part of an hour as we waited for our ride and I must admit that I was pretty thrilled to sit down on that tram too.

A word of warning – the day zoo and night safari are probably too much to tackle all in one day.  We bought a combined ticket that could be used on separate days and were glad we made the decision to separate the two visits.  Animal fatigue, anyone?

Civil Defence Heritage Gallery

I am so pleased we stumbled across this attraction on our last day.  It’s about as off the beaten (tourist) track as you can get in a place like Singapore and yet it was Mister Four’s highlight of the entire trip.  It’s a small, free museum next door to the Central Fire Station ('Yes sweetheart, it really is a real fire station').  Little Fireman Sams can look at old fire engines, climb on one and even try on fire fighting suits too.  Mister Four was in emergency-seeking heaven.  What really topped off the visit was the kindness of the volunteers, retired servicemen themselves ('Yes, he really used to be a real fireman').  They were very happy to share tales of their careers and even snuck us next door for a peek at a working engine ('Yes, it really is a real fire engine').  Despite being somewhat off the tourist radar it’s centrally located; a very happy way to fill a little adventurer's morning.

'Emergency!'

Food

Like most of Asia, Singapore is a foodie’s paradise.  What we love is the incredible range.  Gourmands will delight in the international cuisine on offer (we thoroughly enjoyed our first vegetarian Japanese restaurant) but the food courts and hawker centres are equally good and considerably more pocket-friendly in a city that’s generally not a cheap destination.  Do take a moment to introduce your little ones to durian.  I know, I know.  It’s truly dreadful, but it has to be done!

There are a hundred other things to explore in Singapore and I’ll try to share more here in the future.  But my time’s up – baby is awake and my little fireman has just returned and placed a mixing bowl helmet on my head.  That’s my cue to make a speedy exit. 

Playing in Pangkor (Pangkor Island Beach Resort)

A motley collection of shells.  A peacock feather.  Three wilted frangipanis.  A bucket of sand.

These are the things Mister Three wanted to bring back from our recent three night trip to Pangkor Island.  Being the boring killjoy that I am, few of the above souvenirs made it back to KL but despite a lack of visual reminders, this was a holiday that seems to have made a deep impression on Master Three.  The night he woke up crying 'I miss Pangkor' it dawned on me that our holiday at Pangkor Island Beach Resort was pretty much the stuff of a child's dreams.

 For a start, the journey's pretty fun; children will love the thirty minute ferry ride that awaits them at Lumut, a fairly straightforward three or so hour drive from KL.  You can find out more about it here.  There's then the extra bonus of a short bus ride to your resort.  Our hotel provided a very cool white vehicle that bore a strong resemblance to a decommissioned prison bus.  Very exciting for three year olds.  Our two month old baby girl was less excited, but rolled with it all anyway.

Secondly, there's the welcome.  The day we arrived there was a man dressed up in a panda suit handing out chocolate bars at the resort entrance.  Pretty much a small child's nirvana right there.  And we found the staff very friendly and attentive.  Our little boy befriended one of the managers who made an effort to seek him out every day.

Next, there's the beach.  Obviously.  It's a pretty curve of beach.  Quite long, reasonably fine sand and just a gentle swell.  In this country of stunning beaches it's not the finest, but it is attractive and bucket-weilding, ghost crab hunting, salty water seeking tots will be more than satisfied.

And then there's just the fun of staying at a big resort.  Admittedly, Pangkor Island Beach Resort will always live in the shadow of the famous, glamorous Pangkor Laut Resort.  But let's be honest.  If you have kids and unless you know something I don't, you aren't going to be canoodling the night away over long romantic dinners or having exquisite couples massages.  So what you're looking for is somewhere with a pool (tick), comfortable, if basic, rooms (tick) and space for children to run around (tick).  It's true that the decor and facilities are a little tired in some places but I've yet to meet a child who complains about dated bathroom tiles.  

I'm also yet to find a child who isn't lured by an ice cream trolley at the dinner buffet or fresh waffles at breakfast.  Meals aren't perfect, service isn't always slick (though always friendly), but it's adequate and your child won't be particularly bothered if the rice is a little dry.

Beach babe

We stayed in the old wing.  The rooms are perhaps less attractive than those in the newer wing, but we liked the ground floor rooms with little gardens fronting onto the pool.  They're handy, especially if you have a young child who will need naps.  Free-roaming peacocks, the occasional monkey and beautiful hornbills drop by from time to time.

So there you have it.  This is an easy and fun family destination.  A honeymooners' paradise?  Probably less so.  But then, since parenthood arrived and sleep-in-til-ten-then-sunbake-all-day holidays are on long-term hold, I've discovered that the best trips are those that bring the most smiles to my little peoples' faces.

Jaunting Around Japan (With Kids!)

Have you ever considered Japan as a family holiday destination?  Now I know I'm slightly biased: I've had a love affair with the country since I first visited at the age of 15.  I did a degree in Japanese and am a freelance Japanese translator.  And I lived there for three of the happiest years of my life.  It's also where I met Mr Mum On The Move.

But even if I discredited all of those wonderful facts, I'd still say it shapes up as a brilliant family destination.  Here's a report I wrote on a trip we did a little while back.

"Look, a doll lady!'  This was a phrase we heard a lot from our two-year-old during our four days in Kyoto, as we ambled along the old streets of the famous Gion area, home to Kyoto's mysterious geisha culture.  The nighttime bustle of Ponto-cho's narrow streets, crammed with traditional teahouses and restaurants, provided the perfect contrast to the daytime serenity of Kyoto's world-famous temples and shrines.  Kyoto was the starting point for a ten-day holiday our family of three took in July.

We arrived in Japan at Osaka Airport and then took the relatively straightforward train journey into Kyoto.  Four days was a perfect length of stay for us - just right for fitting in some of the major sites without succumbing to the all-too real phenomenon of 'temple fatigue'.  Alongside traditional Kyoto we found soft play centres, parks and gaudy neon-lit arcades aplenty, ensuring a happy balance for parents and two-year-old alike.  People traveling without children or with older children might be able to uncover more of Kyoto's gems over several days, but we were happy to limit ourselves to the splendours of Kiyomizu Dera, Ginkakuji, Fushimi Inari and Kinkakuji.  For those with children, the aquarium in Osaka is a must-see when you are in the Kyoto region, particularly for the impressive whale sharks.  

Fushimi Inari

We then took a ‘shinkansen’ (bullet train), much to Mister Two's delight and traveled very comfortably up to the small city of Utsunomiya in Tochigi Prefecture.  Few tourists venture here as there is little of particular note but it holds great sentimental value for us as it is where hubby and I met and rented out our first (dingy) little apartment together.  I'll gloss over the rest of our stay in Utsunomiya as to go into any detail would cause me to wax lyrical about the amazing restaurant that serves chocolate dumplings on a bed of rice, the cinema where we watched Godzilla and the exact bit of pavement where said husband crashed the bicycle that was carrying us both home in the snow late one night.  These were all wonderful trips down memory lane for us but going into any more details here would be akin to showing you a very long and tedious holiday album.  

We then took our last train journey and traveled into Yokohama, the metropolis that lies south of Tokyo and an excellent base for Tokyo itself as well as the beautiful historical town of Kamakura.  We were lucky enough to stay with friends who have an apartment on the 32nd floor of a swanky new skyrise.  The view across Tokyo, and on a clear day, as far as Mt Fuji was breathtaking.  We had the very good fortune to be driven around Tokyo by our friends, but once you get the hang of it it's also relatively easy to explore on the amazingly efficient subway system.  Tokyo is far too big to summarise in a short article, but some of the highlights for us include Shibuya, a manic but exciting entertainment area, Harajuku, a centre for the craziest Japanese fashion and in particular the 'cosplay' (costume play) phenomenon (in a nutshell, girls dressed like Little Bo Peep and boys in manga garb), the grand and somewhat more sedate Imperial Palace and Ueno, home to a huge park that houses a zoo, galleries and museums. 

Find an arcade in Tokyo - your toddler will love it!

Perhaps less frequently cited in guidebooks, but well worth the trip in my opinion is the Tokyo Honda Showroom in Aoyama.  I must be honest, for me it's less about the cars and motorbikes and more about Asimo, Honda's humanoid robot who makes regular daily appearances there.  His short performance is impressive stuff, as he dances, runs, high fives and generally shows off on a small stage in the showroom.  He's highly entertaining...and free too.

Visit Asimo at the Honda Showroom 

One final feature to touch on here is the Sky Tree, Tokyo's brand spanking new observation tower.  We didn't have the time (or perhaps energy) to pre-book tickets, but looking at the shiny, er, tree-like structure was entertaining in its own right.

A two-centre Kyoto and Tokyo trip is an ideal way to encounter both Japan's historical and modern beauty, as well as some of the quirks (and you doubtless will find some).  Of course, there is so much more to discover beyond these two big cities but they do make a good starting point.

If you do travel to Japan, bear in mind that English is not as widely-spoken as it is in many other parts of Asia.  It's worth getting a Japanese speaker to write down a few key phrases, either phonetically or on small cards in Japanese script that you can quickly flash during linguistic predicaments.  This is of course all the more relevant if you are traveling outside the major sightseeing areas. 

It's also worth mentioning here that whilst Japan is by no means a cheap destination, it is entirely possible to travel around without breaking the bank.  Prices are generally comparable to London, but you can make real savings if you look for them.  'Konbinis' (convenience stores) are excellent places to buy good quality budget-friendly picnic lunches, with sushi, rice balls and good salads aplenty.  'Famiresu' (family restaurants) are also good places for reasonably-priced meals when sushi fatigue sets in.  If you are considering traveling quite a bit you would do well to buy a JR Pass.  This seven or fourteen day pass will allow you to freely use most bullet trains with or without reservations and is cost effective if you are visiting more than a few regions.  Hotels are pricey, but 'ryokans' (traditional inns with futons on tatami mats, a hot bath or 'onsen' and usually excellent meals) often work out cheaper and are, in my opinion, a good deal more fun. Tripadvisor has pages and pages of listings for ryokans in both Kyoto and Tokyo.

Traveling with children is fairly easy and there are excellent facilities for nappy changes and baby feeds, and even training toilets for toddlers in many public areas. If you have a curious child (or husband, wife, partner) they will find Japanese toilets to be a source of great amusement with their many, many bells and whistles.  Unfortunately they are rarely decipherable in English so be prepared for a few surprises! 

This rounds things off quite nicely, with Japan's high-tech bathroom appliances providing a good (positive!) analogy: there are surprises aplenty, things are not always easy to understand or readily communicated, but once you try it for yourself Japan is innovative, warm and aesthetically pleasing.

Ten Things I Love About You, Brisbane

I’m the proud owner of a sun-dappled, carefree and muddy-footed childhood in
Brisbane’s bayside.  I’m also lucky enough to be raising my own three-year-old
London-born boy (and another bubba on the way soon) in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia,
where my husband is currently on a diplomatic posting.  There are countless
wonderful things about raising children in such an exciting Asian country but I also
love coming back to Brisbane and seeing with new eyes all the best bits about being
a parent or child in Brizzie.  And so, on a recent trip home, I made a list of ten things
I love about my hometown.  You’ll note the absence of the big attractions because in
my eyes it’s all about the little things…

1. Bare-footedness
Oh the freedom of running around the garden with no shoes on!  It took all of one day
for Mister Three to adopt this Brizzie habit.  I couldn’t believe it when my sister told
me her little girl is not allowed to wear shoes in the garden at kindy.  How fabulous! 
Dirty feet are the sign of a good day, aren’t they?

2. Paddle Pops on the beach
What a moment it was to introduce my little boy to his first chocolate Paddle Pop (if you've yet to discover this gem, you've got a good, ice-creamy treat coming).  After the above-mentioned
dirty feet, a chocolate-smeared face is a pretty good indicator of happy times.

3. Happy toileting experiences
I see you shudder slightly, but bear with me for a moment.  It seems to me that even
the most tired Brisbane shopping centre boasts at least one ‘parents room’, and I, for
one, think they are pretty impressive.  Mister Three delights in finding toddler-sized
toilets and ‘soap that I can reach all by myself’ and I personally get pretty excited that
there’s a free magazine waiting for me on my exit.  Like I said, it’s the little things…

4. Aussie bakeries
Is there anything more comforting than home-grown bakery favourites like
lamingtons, cream buns, vanilla slices and hedgehog slices?  Forget high tea at the
Savoy.  Afternoon tea Aussie-style is loads more fun.

5. Footpaths
I’ve had some hair-raising moments getting out and about with a pram but none of
them have taken place in Brisbane.  I revel in the wide, smooth, cemented-bliss of
a Brisbane footpath.  And crikey – separate bike paths?  Brisbane is the walking
parent’s dream.

6. Parks
We’ve found a few exceptional ones in and around Brisbane lately.  I’m especially
loving the Capalaba Regional Park (behind Bunnings).  It’s creative, accessible and
most importantly, fun.  Not a 1970s steel-rimmed slide in sight.

7. Railways
Aside from the fact that those of us not lucky enough to own a Go Card face
fiendishly expensive fares, I think Queensland Rail puts on a pretty good show –
my little one is still talking about ‘The day we went on a train to the museelum’. 
Then there’s the brilliant Ipswich Railway Museum.  This has to be one of the best
attractions I’ve taken Mister Three to, in any country.  Entrance: $11/child.  Watching
your little one ‘drive’ his own tilt train: Priceless.

8. Variety
I was gob smacked the first time I saw gender-specific nappies, something that I’ve
yet to find anywhere else in the world.  I must admit I’m not entirely sure what the
difference between a boys’ and girls’ nappy is, but hey, it’s nice to know I have the
option if I want it.

9. Friendliness
It’s the little things, like the sweet old lady who stops for a chat with all the time
in the world or the fellow pedestrian who just smiles and says ‘When you gotta go,
you gotta go’ when your three year old decides to have a wee in the middle of the
footpath. 

10. Wildlife
The other night Mister Three and I went for a ‘nature walk’.  The clear Brisbane night
sky (‘What are those sparkling things in the sky Mummy?’) is the perfect backdrop to
find a garden owl, a possum, or for those of us lucky enough to have them, a koala. 
Falling asleep to the sound of a pair of randy possums fighting to the death is slightly
less lovely, but it’s all part of the Brizzie experience really isn’t it?

Babymooning in Bali (Ubud)

I've just walked into a local restaurant tucked away on a narrow windy road.  I'm deliberating whether to lunch on the nasi goreng or the nasi campur when I hear gun shots.  I turn quickly and discover a small boy, perched on his father's parked motorbike, hands posed in a classic pistol shape, pointing straight at me and firing with a devilish grin on his cheeky little face.

I don't think he really wants me shot (as far as I can tell) - I'm pretty sure it's just a game.  Whatever his motivation, the shoot out is accompanied by a radiant smile, just like the ones we've been receiving all week.  The old cliche about the 'land of a thousand smiles' rings true to me, gun shots or not.

My husband and I chose the exotic location of Ubud, in central Bali, for a rare treat - a babymoon.  With the ever-generous parents-in-law tucked up safely in our KL home with Master Three (who was so keen to get on with his five days of doting grandparent time that he barely glanced as we headed out the door), we were making the most of a spot of child-free travel.  We chose Ubud because it is full of artisans and their galleries, chi chi little cafes, long walks through rice fields and hidden away little temples.  Hardly a destination for little tots - or is it?  (I'll get to that later).

We stayed at the very beautifully appointed (though slightly overpriced) Kenanga Boutique Hotel.  Set back a little from the centre of town, it's nestled in amongst seemingly endless rice fields.  With a regular shuttle into town it was a good combination of retreat and sightseeing-base.  It was also perfectly adult and featured not a single water slide or kids' club.  That said, there were a number of children staying at the hotel, and they seemed to be having just as much fun as we were.

So how did we spend our idyllic five days in Ubud?  Honestly?  My Kindle got a workout.  This was the first holiday in the last three and a half years where I have managed to make actual headway on a book.  The free-standing bath tub cocooned me in hot water at least once a day.  And breakfasts were a thing of beauty - think long, drawn-out meals with not a baby wipe in sight.

We did manage to get out and about too.  In fact, we hired a car and driver for a day (Ra at Ubud Taxis is to be highly recommended) and visited several beautiful temples, a volcano and a few craft districts.  We bought two stunning paintings.  We visited a nearby spa and discovered what a hair cream bath is all about.  We watched a dance show at the Ubud Palace and enjoyed dining out at several good restaurants.  We meandered down rutted pavements, popping in and out of crafty, arty shops.  (We quickly learnt to veer away from the tourist-tat of Monkey Forest Road, and head instead for the quieter, less touristy and more interesting back streets.)

The verdict overall?  Beautiful, though unfortunately not immune to some of the spoils of modern tourism - touts, congestion and tat (does anyone actually buy those carved penis keyrings?).  But the area just outside the town is stunning and the little touches that greeted us at every corner - the elegant women carrying straw baskets on their heads, the little offerings placed at intervals along the footpaths and the breathtaking tiered rice fields further afield - were entrancing, exotic and elegant.

So is Ubud a destination for families?  Actually, it probably is that too.  You'd have to do some careful planning - strollers look like a bit of a disaster in the centre of town and your quota of art galleries would need to be carefully considered, but we saw lots of families out and about.  Some of the temples, the dance shows, the markets, would be great fun for littlies.  And if you pick a hotel out of town, the rice fields would make a wonderful stomping ground for small people.

In fact I'm already planning how to make it work...

I'd love to go back and show Master Three and Baby-On-The-Way such a stunning part of the world.  The moment we got home I snuck into the little man's room and gave him a huge sleepy cuddle, whispering to him about our adventures in this exotic little spot.  I think it was my favourite moment of the whole week.

Guest Blog: Top 6 Family Destinations in Asia

I'm delighted to share with you a guest blog from writer John Gower of NerdWallet.  I hope you find his expert advice about top tot-friendly Asian destinations as useful as I did.  There's just one problem - where to go first!

 

 

Top 6 Family Destinations in Asia

 

Asia is not only the largest, but also arguably the most culturally diverse and colorful continent. Due to its size, its expansive areas of pure, natural beauty, and its modern, bustling cities, Asia has ideal vacation spots for every traveller. However, it can be a difficult task to find destinations that will please the whole family. Luckily, there are certain locations with historical, natural, and artistic landmarks that people of all ages can enjoy together. You and your children can learn about Asian history and culture, and in the same day, you can visit a thrilling amusement park to have pure fun.

1. Hong Kong, China

• If you are touring Asia, you must definitely pass through China. One of the oldest civilizations in the world, China brings with it centuries of history and culture. Hong Kong is by far the most welcoming city to Chinese tourists and, if you visit, you will have the least trouble adapting in Hong Kong.
• When you visit, take your children to the Hong Kong Disneyland. Meanwhile, you can go to the world-famous Ladies’ Market to pick up some inexpensive, gorgeous accessories for yourself or a loved one. Later, take the whole family to The Peak and The Clock Tower to explore the innovative architecture of modern China.
• The next day, take the kids to the Ocean Park Hong Kong for another amusement park adventure while you channel your inner Zen at the Big Buddha and Li Po Monastery.

2. Tokyo, Japan

• A blend of traditional values and cutting-edge technological advances, Tokyo and its skyscrapers are not known across the world for nothing! However, before going, make sure your family will be comfortable with the bustle and large, tight crowds of Tokyo.
• Immerse you and your family into Japanese culture by going to a sumo wrestling match; your children are sure to be entertained! For dinner, head to a restaurant near the Tsukiji Fish Market for the world’s best and freshest sushi.
• One of Tokyo’s greatest attractions is the city itself. Revel in breathtaking views of the city’s skyline and sculptures during a walk through Tokyo’s streets with the family. Take the kids to one of the many mega malls and prepare for a sensory overload!
• After your excursion through urban Tokyo, experience some of the natural beauty of the city by visiting the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. Stroll through the gardens to see some of the rarest and most exotic varieties of Asian flora.

 

 

3. Mumbai, India

• The Taj Mahal in Agra may be one of the most famous tourist destinations in India, but for thorough family fun, head further down south to experience the mix of authentic Indian culture and modernity that makes India famous.
• Mumbai is the center of the Bollywood film and music industry. Visit during the festivals Diwali or Holi to entertain your children while learning about Indian religions and culture.
• Visit Mumbai’s Marine Drive, which spans the Beverly Hills of India. On your right will be a white sand beach and on your left, you will see the gorgeous houses of India’s richest. You might even get to see a celebrity or two!
• End your trip by stopping at the Mahalakshmi Temple, where you and the kids can learn about Indian mythology and legend while witnessing the beauty of traditional Indian architecture.

4. Abu Dhabi, UAE

• Abu Dhabi has recently been making serious technological advances and is now one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. Delight in some of the newest and most innovative family friendly attractions out there!
• Check out the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque for a grandiose view of Islamic architecture and learn about the religion and culture with your kids!
• There are zoos and camel rides interspersed throughout Abu Dhabi for you and your children. For two recommendations, the Al Ain Zoo and the Arabian Wildlife Park will let you see some of the earth’s most striking animals up close.
• The adults and teenagers who would appreciate Abu Dhabi’s groundbreaking architecture can take a walk through the streets, admiring the skylines, including the tallest building in the world. Meanwhile, the kids can head over to the Yas Waterworld so they can have just as much fun.

5. Bali, Indonesia

• After visiting some of the biggest and most exciting cities in Asia, you and the family can vacation in Bali to witness some natural, historical, archaeological, and artistic attractions firsthand. Stay at one of Bali’s luxurious resorts, looking out over the cerulean waters of the Bali Sea.
• While you visit the famed temples of Bali, such as the easily accessible Pura Luhur Uluwatu, your children can go jungle trekking or hiking with a tour guide to see the most stunning views in the heart of Bali.
• The next day, take your kids to the Bali Safari and Marine Park. Afterwards, treat yourself to a massage and spa treatment to end your tour of Asia.

6. Taipei, Taiwan

• In Asian countries, architecture is one of the main must-see sights, and Taiwan is no exception to that popular fact. If you’re planning a trip to Taipei, Taiwan, be sure to stop by the National Palace Museum. Surviving for centuries, this indestructible monument continues to hold Taiwan’s cultural values with art, history, and other priceless treasures; you and your young or older teens can enjoy an educational, almost three-hour long trip to this magical tourist site.
• Elephant Mountain, one of the “Four Beasts” mountains in Taipei, is the closest, out of this group of mountains, to Taipei, so you can easily see the incredible structures and twinkling night-lights of the city. You and your family can hike up the mountain using stairs for a great workout and view.

Always remember to plan out your trip to Asia well in advance. Getting stranded in a foreign country is not fun and can be extremely dangerous. Enjoy your family vacation, but always make sure you stay safe!

John Gower is a writer for NerdWallet, a personal finance website dedicated to helping travelers save money with financial tips on everything from destinations to the top CD rates.